Elio Sandri, Barolo Riserva Perno DOCG (2016) – Piemonte
A great vintage, Sandri’s best parcel, and a Barolo that is still telling you to wait.
The 2016 Riserva is the sort of bottle people buy a case of and then pretend to forget about. Right now it is floral, spiced and almost transparent, but the structure underneath is stern and very young. Cellar it, or decant it for hours and drink it with something rich.
THE GRAPE
100% Nebbiolo from Sandri’s oldest, low-yielding vines on a cool, northeast-facing slope of Perno hill, in Monforte d’Alba. The Riserva is made only from the best fruit on the property.
THE WINE
Deep floral and spiced aromas, with dark cherry, tar, leather, dried flowers, tobacco, licorice and a bitter-herb note like rhubarb root. The palate is austere and classic, with dense tannins, a balsamic lift and a long, finely detailed finish. It spends years in large old oak botti with no new wood, and it’s unfined and unfiltered. At 14.5% it stays tight and linear rather than heavy.
FOOD PAIRING
Braised beef, game, roast lamb, aged Castelmagno, white truffle tajarin. Decant for two to three hours and serve at 16–18°C.
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