Elio Sandri Barolo DOCG (2014) – Piemonte

The only red Sandri bottled in 2014, so every good grape went into this one.

2014 was a cool, difficult year in Barolo, and Sandri didn’t release a Riserva. All his best fruit went into a single Barolo instead. The result is a transparent, savoury wine, already showing some orange at the rim.

THE GRAPE
100% Nebbiolo from Monforte d’Alba, on a cool, northeast-facing hill. The vines are up to 50 years old and the soils are poor, which keeps yields low and the wine lean and mineral.

THE WINE
Dark and wild cherry, leather, smoke and savoury herbs, with liquorice, rose petals and a hint of bergamot. The tannins have softened with time but still give a gentle tug. The finish is long and ferrous, like a drop of iron. It’s old-school and quietly complex, and ready to drink with a decant.

FOOD PAIRING
Tajarin with butter and white truffle, braised beef, fonduta, aged Castelmagno. Decant an hour ahead and serve at 16–18°C.