Campania Wine Box - Saline Air and Volcanic Earth
It is August and that means that we are in summer exodus. On escape mode to places were the mercury is high, but there is a cooling sea breeze. Campania is an obvious go to. How many summers have been spent on the Amalfi Coast or roaming around Naples after hours?
And so we have aligned our August Box of the Month with our summer inclinations. Our focus are the wines of Campania. Campania is a region blessed with a generous climate, varied terroir and mineral-rich soils. This combined with the range of indigenous grapes that are cultivated across the region contributes to a rich viticultural heritage which excels in both white and red wines; something we might add is a relative rarity.
With our Box of the Month we wanted to show how the diversity of producers we work with in Campania reflects the variety of wines made in the region. For instance, in the Taurasi appellation Perillo is working with Aglianico grapes and fermenting them in stainless steel to create a Taurasi that is fresher than would be conventionally expected of the appellation. In turn, Villa Dora’s setting within the Regional Park of Mount Vesuvius by necessity guarantees volcanic soil which lends a beautiful minerality that merges with the salinity of the sea breeze that dominates from the Bay of Naples.
These are wines that speak of summer; an idyllic summer in the majestic setting of Campania.
I Borboni “Vite maritata” Asprinio Aversa DOC 2022
I Borboni’s commitment is to upholding the local traditions related to the cultivation of the Aspirinio grape indigenous to the area surrounding Caserta. In a prime example of biodiversity, this variety has historically been cultivated against masts so that they can cling to trees. With vines aged 50 to 60 years old, this wine has a beautiful elegance befitting its brilliant colour. Minerality is here in abundance with notes of citrus and yellow melon.
Romano Fiano d’Avellino DOC 2022
Youthful and vibrant, this is the exact wine that is called for on a sunny afternoon. Spring flowers and yellow peach are present but are lifted by a refreshing acidity. The grape’s often waxy texture is lifted by its youth and balanced with a pervasive minerality. Pair this with grilled white fish for a perfect lunch.
Villa Dora Caprettone Vesuvio DOC 2020
One of the lesser known Campanian varieties, Caprettone is a rare variety of an ungrafted vine. This is entirely accountable to the setting of Villa Dora within the Vesuvius National Park as the volcanic soil provided a natural resistance to Phylloxera. This volcanic soil also contributed to the mineral notes that are accentuated through one hour of maceration and fermentation in steel tank. With a slightly smoky finish, this is one intriguing example of the intrinsic qualities of Campanian wines.
Bosco Sant’Agnese“Coppacorte” Barbera Benevento IGP 2019
The fundamental mission of Bosco Sant’Agnese is to cultivate uncommon indigenous grape varieties following biodynamic agricultural practices. Unrelated to Barbera d’Alba, Barbera Beneventana is an aromatic red grape that compares well with Aleatico. Its rich nose is characterised by berries, ripe red fruits and Mediterranean herbs. Full in the mouth, the intense sour cherry makes this prime pairing for rich tomato-based pastas.
Aglianico is a grape that deserves your utmost attention. Full-bodied with firm tannins, it produces a wine that deserves to be contemplated. In the case of Perillo, the vineyard’s setting at an altitude of 500 metres above sea level combined with their work with ungrafted vines up to 95 years old creates something quite intriguing. Distinctly balsamic notes give way to a touch of black pepper and a freshness due to ageing in stainless steel.
Alois Cunto
Pallagrello Nero is a variety rarely found beyond Campania’s confines. And at Alois, there is an inherent dedication to clearly express its characteristics. These include floral aromas of violet and geranium that pre-empt a soft, enveloping flavour. Twelve months ageing in oak and 12 months fining in bottle. Something that would stand up as an aperitivo as much as alongside a grilled meat dish or rabbit stew.
